The history of the adventures in the Siguniang Mountain area can be traced back to the first exploration by American Joseph in the 1920s. After the Americans climbed the Gongga Mountain in 1932, more foreign explorers and mountaineers spurred the exploration of Sichuan peaks. .
In 1980, the American climber first attempted to climb the 5413m Pomiu. This was the first recorded climb. From October 8th to 9th, 1983, Edwards Ville took the lead and the famous Yosemite pioneer Allen Steck. A small climbing team of 6 climbers (members Eric Baumann, Bilal, Pittwright, Brockwagerstaff, Bob Schneider) climbed from the southwest wall and they climbed from 4785. The C1 camp of meters took about 8 hours to reach the summit. The overall difficulty of the route reached 5.10c. This was the first record of the official record (Xinhua News Agency, Beijing, October 21, 1983). Their record height was 5334 meters.
On August 5th, 1985, the American AAC member Keith Brown was singled out by the new route of the southeastern ridge of Pompong Peak, with a height of 5,700 meters. Keith Brown said in the relevant text: "The upswing process was very compact, with 28 pitches, the weather was clearer and it took 3 days; when it fell, it fell from the inaccessible east wall and the weather was unpredictable to the climbers. of".
In 1994, American Charlie Fowler climbed the peak of the four girls from the southwest ridge route alone, and went to SOLO with several Weifeng (5383m, 5434m, 5666m); in 1997, Americans Jeff Hollenbaugh, Mike Pennings, The peaks of the southwest wall of the Laofeng Peak were topped (10pitch, overall difficulty 5.9), and the height was recorded at 5413 meters. Hollenbaugh later wrote in the American Alpine Journal: "The rocks here are many natural granite roads, unlike Yosemite and Patagonia and Pakistan." In the face of these rock walls, more climbers believe that these peaks are almost impossible to climb, and many straight rock walls are rarely seen, like a road ("creepy"—a description of an American climber). The river spreads out to the south.
In addition to the Grandma Peak, from August to September 2001, the Italian four-girls climbers (Gianluca Bellin, Diego Stefani, Marco Sterni, Gianluca Bellin, Diego Stefani) and team members Gianluca Bellin and Diego Stefani first climbed the Shuangqiaogou from the southwest wall. Inside a 5,200-meter-high "Wong Shan", the route was named "Marco Polo" (850 meters, 16 pitch, difficulty 6c A1). For the first time in the spring of 2000, Italian climbers attempted to climb because of bad weather and deep snow and had to return to the base camp from the original route of the southwest wall. One year later, they returned to Siguniang Mountain again. However, the bad weather made them outside the base camp and there were few opportunities to climb.
In 2001, there were three mountaineering teams in Shuangqiaogou: an Italian seven-man team, an Italian three-man team and the US team of climbers Luebben brothers' ice-climbing team. Before the summit, the other two teams have been trying in the valley for several days, and they have retreated in the face of bad weather. The Luebben (Craig Luebben, Silvia Luebben) brothers only climbed a pitch that was originally planned for the 800-meter route, while Marco Sterni's Italian team climbed a 300-meter route when they were running out of time.
The ice-climbing team led by the Luebben brothers finally found a suitable ice-climbing site in the southern part of Shuangqiaogou in the winter of 2001. They found a number of water-ice climbing routes, with the highest difficulty reaching WI6+. In the first issue of CLIMBING magazine in 2003, they published an article on Shuangqiaogou ice climbing.
In 2002, 6 climbers from Japan climbed to Niu Xin Shan, while British climbers Mike (Twid) Turner and South Korea's Chungbuk Mountain Tour Team (10 persons) both announced that they had reached the summit for the first time at 5,500 meters above sea level. Granite rock wall), but the news remains to be confirmed.
(This article is part of the content from the United Kingdom, the United States AAC, Italy, Japan Mountain Club and other countries Alpine Club information and information on a number of mountaineering sites, Ma Demin compiled, -mh, kristian, lone horse, small donkey 0024, janeclimber, Yokohama 9264 and other users This article also contributed)
In 1980, the American climber first attempted to climb the 5413m Pomiu. This was the first recorded climb. From October 8th to 9th, 1983, Edwards Ville took the lead and the famous Yosemite pioneer Allen Steck. A small climbing team of 6 climbers (members Eric Baumann, Bilal, Pittwright, Brockwagerstaff, Bob Schneider) climbed from the southwest wall and they climbed from 4785. The C1 camp of meters took about 8 hours to reach the summit. The overall difficulty of the route reached 5.10c. This was the first record of the official record (Xinhua News Agency, Beijing, October 21, 1983). Their record height was 5334 meters.
On August 5th, 1985, the American AAC member Keith Brown was singled out by the new route of the southeastern ridge of Pompong Peak, with a height of 5,700 meters. Keith Brown said in the relevant text: "The upswing process was very compact, with 28 pitches, the weather was clearer and it took 3 days; when it fell, it fell from the inaccessible east wall and the weather was unpredictable to the climbers. of".
In 1994, American Charlie Fowler climbed the peak of the four girls from the southwest ridge route alone, and went to SOLO with several Weifeng (5383m, 5434m, 5666m); in 1997, Americans Jeff Hollenbaugh, Mike Pennings, The peaks of the southwest wall of the Laofeng Peak were topped (10pitch, overall difficulty 5.9), and the height was recorded at 5413 meters. Hollenbaugh later wrote in the American Alpine Journal: "The rocks here are many natural granite roads, unlike Yosemite and Patagonia and Pakistan." In the face of these rock walls, more climbers believe that these peaks are almost impossible to climb, and many straight rock walls are rarely seen, like a road ("creepy"—a description of an American climber). The river spreads out to the south.
In addition to the Grandma Peak, from August to September 2001, the Italian four-girls climbers (Gianluca Bellin, Diego Stefani, Marco Sterni, Gianluca Bellin, Diego Stefani) and team members Gianluca Bellin and Diego Stefani first climbed the Shuangqiaogou from the southwest wall. Inside a 5,200-meter-high "Wong Shan", the route was named "Marco Polo" (850 meters, 16 pitch, difficulty 6c A1). For the first time in the spring of 2000, Italian climbers attempted to climb because of bad weather and deep snow and had to return to the base camp from the original route of the southwest wall. One year later, they returned to Siguniang Mountain again. However, the bad weather made them outside the base camp and there were few opportunities to climb.
In 2001, there were three mountaineering teams in Shuangqiaogou: an Italian seven-man team, an Italian three-man team and the US team of climbers Luebben brothers' ice-climbing team. Before the summit, the other two teams have been trying in the valley for several days, and they have retreated in the face of bad weather. The Luebben (Craig Luebben, Silvia Luebben) brothers only climbed a pitch that was originally planned for the 800-meter route, while Marco Sterni's Italian team climbed a 300-meter route when they were running out of time.
The ice-climbing team led by the Luebben brothers finally found a suitable ice-climbing site in the southern part of Shuangqiaogou in the winter of 2001. They found a number of water-ice climbing routes, with the highest difficulty reaching WI6+. In the first issue of CLIMBING magazine in 2003, they published an article on Shuangqiaogou ice climbing.
In 2002, 6 climbers from Japan climbed to Niu Xin Shan, while British climbers Mike (Twid) Turner and South Korea's Chungbuk Mountain Tour Team (10 persons) both announced that they had reached the summit for the first time at 5,500 meters above sea level. Granite rock wall), but the news remains to be confirmed.
(This article is part of the content from the United Kingdom, the United States AAC, Italy, Japan Mountain Club and other countries Alpine Club information and information on a number of mountaineering sites, Ma Demin compiled, -mh, kristian, lone horse, small donkey 0024, janeclimber, Yokohama 9264 and other users This article also contributed)
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