The knot group is a technique that uses a rope to move, the climber is connected to the rope, and the rope moves as the climber moves.
The knot group can reduce the risk of shedding or falling to a certain extent, and can be stopped by the help of protection points and companions after falling off or falling. If the protection point and companions cannot stop the fall, then the grouping will not work, and even cause more serious risks than the individual actions, pulling the people on the rope together down the mountain.
Therefore, before selecting a knot, make sure to set a protective point that can be braked, or allow the climber to brake on its own, at least one of them. Otherwise, the rope will only give a false sense of security, will not guarantee the security of the real, once someone falls, the entire rope team will face the risk of being pulled down.
On smooth, glacial or hard snow, the terrain does not allow the climber to perform gliding braking, and it is very dangerous if the protection group is not set when the group is travelling.
On soft slopes, it is difficult to set effective protection points, but the climber can stop a certain slide by using a stable footwork, so it can be grouped in a suitable way.
In a smooth and complete rock panel or on a gravel slope, it is difficult for the climber to brake and the protection point is difficult to set. It is better not to group on this terrain.
In addition, it should be noted that the grouping is only to deal with the risk of slipping. If the risk elsewhere is greater than the risk of slipping, such as in an avalanche or rockfall area, then it is best not to group. Rapid adoption in these areas is an important method to deal with risks, and the grouping may slow down the speed to a certain extent.
The knot technology uses ropes and even protection points. Therefore, the management of ropes and other equipment will affect the safety and efficiency of the knots. Rope management is mainly concerned with rope length and rope tightness. The requirements for the length of the rope on different terrains are different. The length of the rope will affect the dragging of the rope, and it also determines the number of protection points to a certain extent.
On the broken rock, the rope is too long to hang off the gravel, friction will increase, it is difficult to twitch the rope.
On a smooth, flat ice wall, a long rope can reduce the setting of protection points and increase climbing efficiency.
In addition, the rope length also affects the communication and braking reaction time. The longer the rope is, the more difficult it is to communicate and the longer the braking response time. When making knots on snow slopes, it is difficult to set the protection point to rely on one's own strength for braking. In order to prevent and reduce the slipping, it is necessary to communicate and brake quickly. Therefore, the rope should be as short as possible.
The tightness of the rope mainly affects the mutual interference between the rope team members, the distance between the fall and the length of the braking reaction time. The tighter the rope, the more severe the mutual interference between members, but the shorter the slide distance, the shorter the braking reaction time.
Compared with marching alone, the grouping involves more people, so the communication and coordination between people on the ropes is also critical. In the climb of the knot segment, the leader and the follower involved the handover of the equipment, the ropes, the route communication, and the difficulty guidance. The tacit understanding of the two people determines the climbing efficiency.
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